Pyramid schemes: the USDA's new food 'plate'

Want to judge the usefulness of the government's new replacement for the food pyramid? Just check out how they define protein.

Pyramid schemes: the USDA's new food 'plate'
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Ronald Holden

Want to judge the usefulness of the government's new replacement for the food pyramid? Just check out how they define protein.

The bright folks at the U.S. Department of Agriculture have labored mightily and laid an egg.

Six  years ago — the blink of an eye, the rumble of an overfed tummy, but  still, over 2,000 square meals ago — they released a confusing striped  food pyramid to replace the layered original, and they added stairs to  suggest exercise.

In a stroke of revisionist history, the site "MyPyramid.gov" now resolves to ChooseMyPlate.gov.  (It sounds like something Network Solutions suggests when the domain  name you want isn't available.) But is the plate any smarter than the  pyramid? It's not a pie chart (that would be too cute), but does it make  sense? Is it at all useful?

Ask 100 people on the sidewalk "what's a protein?" and I'll bet you  get 50 answers, few of them correct. Ask 100 shoppers in the grocery  store to point you toward "the protein," I'll bet you get fewer than 10  right answers, even from people who work there. "Protein" is just too  vague a term to be helpful.

Consider the USDA's own language:

Dry beans and  peas can be counted either in the Vegetable Group (dry beans and peas  subgroup) or in the Protein Foods Group (formerly called the Meat and  Beans Group), or in both groups. Generally, individuals who regularly  eat meat, poultry, and fish would count dry beans and peas in the  Vegetable Group. Individuals who seldom or never eat meat, poultry, or  fish (vegetarians and vegans) would first count the dry beans and peas  they eat in the Protein Foods Group, and then any remaining would be  counted in the Vegetable Group.

That's supposed to be the USDA's useful advice. What about someone  who drinks a "protein shake"? And what about the protein in dairy  products? It's too early to predict the howls from parties whose oxen  are gored by the advice to eat less food, but I, for one, am already fed  up.

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Ronald Holden

By Ronald Holden

Ronald Holden is a regular Crosscut contributor. His new book, published this month, is titled “HOME GROWN Seattle: 101 True Tales of Local Food & Drink." (Belltown Media. $17.95).