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Staple & Fancy: a quickie 'review' and a mystery surrounding its name

Ethan Stowell's latest venture is the most approachable of his restaurants, with a relaxed atmosphere and straightforward menu.

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Ronald Holden

Ethan Stowell's latest venture is the most approachable of his restaurants, with a relaxed atmosphere and straightforward menu.

We're not going to make a habit of this, reviewing a restaurant in its first week, but hey, Ethan Stowell's a big boy, he's done this before, and it's not as if he's got too fragile an ego. In fact, the restaurant he opened 18 months ago,

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Ronald Holden

By Ronald Holden

Ronald Holden is a regular Crosscut contributor. His new book, published this month, is titled “HOME GROWN Seattle: 101 True Tales of Local Food & Drink." (Belltown Media. $17.95).